Smoke Clad Warrior A/W 2014

Mads Dinesen



Throughout the history of humanity and everywhere on earth, individuals, movements, and groups of people have expressed their ideals and principles by means of protests, marches and demonstrations. Recently, we have witnessed the Arab Spring and the resistance against the oppression of LGBT individuals and organizations in Russia. Clashes occur between governments and people, between different interest groups, or between an individual and a society. The energy that is released in clashes like these serves as the main inspiration for the AW2014 collection „Smoke-Clad Warrior“ by MADS DINESEN. How are protest, resistance and ideals expressed through clothing, not only from the point of view of the individual, but also from a societal and cultural point of view? Do we conform our style based on a certain way of living or on a sense of idealism? Or do we express ourselves through slogans on T-shirts and badges? The collection is a tribute to all historical and contemporary pioneers who are risking their honour, freedom and occasionally also their life in order to change the world for the better. Changes, that we as a society now may perceive as being natural or normal, often only occurred after long and heroic fights.

Mahatma Gandhi, Martin Luther King, the Dalai Lama, Shirin Ebadi, Harvey Milk, Susan B. Anthony, Ai Weiwei, Anthony Hegarty, Desmond Tutu, Aung San Suu Kyi, … The list of people who have fought bravely, and are fighting bravely, is endless. The courage and integrity that binds them, is both impressive and inspiring.

To fight for political and societal change, we must go on an introspective journey to be convinced of the idealistic fight ahead. Only by accurately determining our own beliefs, it becomes possible to conquer any injustices we face. But where does an individual encounter his own limits?

This emotional, almost spiritual, way to construct a worldview is comparable to an inner journey where each and every one of us becomes our own spiritual leader. We transform into shamans, priests, or holy men, who through knowledge and experience attempt to shape the world to our personal ideals; that is the main theme of this ethnically mystical, yet youthfully provocative collection.

The collection is focussed on being a fusion of elements inspired by history, ethnic cultures, and youth culture. The cuts and fabrics of this collection are an interplay between light and heavy, construction and draping, and of order and coincidence. The colour range is predominantly dark, though an occasional touch of colour does appear. As in all MADS DINESEN collections, prints, fabric manipulation, and knitwear are the elementary particles of this collection. Out of an idealistic point of view there will be no leather or fur in the collection. The animalistic feeling will be represented through textile manipulations, details and  prints. The focus in the choice of fabrics will be on natural materials such as cotton, wool, linen, silk and raffia. In as many fabric as possible recycling, ecology and environmental sustainability is key factors when selected.

Through the AW2014 collection “Smoke-Clad Warrior”, MADS DINESEN wants to challenge everyone: